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FEBRUARY IN YOUR GARDEN 2012
Up to the time of writing this article we have had an unusually mild winter with the occasional short cold periods, but look out for frosts and protect your early flowering or tender plants by covering them with fleece when necessary.  
Pat Brace from Cavalier Road has given me the following information from the R.H.S. November magazine: - What Future for “Busy Lizzy” due to ‘Downy Mildew’ and no chemical control at the moment.  See ‘Impatiens’ at www.rhs.org.uk.  As Pat says – a sad end to a very popular plant.
To give your half hardy seeds a headstart start them off indoors or in a warm greenhouse. Later in the month hardy annual seeds can be sown outdoors if the weather permits.  
At the end of the month prune back the stems of pot-grown overwintered fuchsias and place in a well-lit warm place to encourage new growth.   Dahlia tubers that were stored over winter can be started into growth in the greenhouse, also begonias, gloxinias and achimenes.  Pot up gladioli for early flowering and plant lily bulbs and lily of the valley crowns in beds and borders.
Divide and/or plant bulbs-in-the-green such as snowdrops and winter aconites.
Move Christmas roses immediately after flowering if necessary.  Clip over summer-flowering heathers removing old flowered growths.  Do not cut into the base of the flowering spike as they do not shoot readily if you cut into old wood.  If the soil is not too soggy plant corms of Anemone coronaria of the du Caen and St Brigid strains.  At the very end of the month, plant ranunculus tubers.  Continue to plant roses incorporating as much humus as possible in the ground before hand.  Prune established roses, leaving ramblers until September.  After pruning, spray against black spot. Also prune winter jasmine, wisterias and ornamental grape vines.  At the end of the month prune back Jackmanii and Viticella groups of clematis to within 1 ft of the ground. Leave early spring flowering clematis such as Montana, alpina or amandii until they have finished flowering.
If the ground is not frozen or waterlogged, finish winter digging as soon as possible, and towards the end of the month top dress beds and borders with a balanced fertiliser.
Place cloches or fleece over outdoor strawberry plants for an early crop.    Cut back autumn fruiting raspberries to within 15cm (6 in) of the ground and trim summer fruiting canes to within 6 inches of the topmost supporting wire.  Prune stems of blackcurrants infested with big bud mite. Cut back tips of blackberry canes and tie the stems to supporting wires.  Protect outdoor peaches, nectarines and apricots from frost.   This is the last month to complete the pruning of fruit trees.  It is also a good time to plant new fruit trees and bushes if the ground is not too wet or frozen.  Mulch all fruit crops with well rotted manure or garden compost.
Sow tomatoes, parsnips, spinach and broad beans, also Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce and leeks.  Plant shallots and garlic.  Plant rhubarb and lift, divide and replant established clumps that need rejuvenating.  Plant Jerusalem artichokes.  Chit seed potatoes in shallow trays, rose end upwards.  
If the lawn is soggy pierce it with a fork at 6-inch intervals and then sprinkle a dressing over it. Try not to get on it any more than you have to, especially in frosty weather.
© Irene Allaway
Reproduced from the BASINGA, Parish Magazine of Old Basing and Lychpit, by kind permission of the Editor and Author, Irene Allaway.